Survey: Village near Bandi-Amir lake

Close to one of the most beautiful lakes in the world...Bandiamir and it is being declared a historical world treasure, we found a poor village and as usual we were welcomed sweetly. This village had a husband/wife team who were being trained to assist the villagers with health issues but we had the opportunity to see a number of medical problems as they were sure that Mahbouba was a doctor. In this village we were told that to have a mother die was certain death for the infant as there was no way to feed the baby. Woman do not wet-nurse as their work load is too heavy to accomodate two infants and they have had no luck with cows milk demonstrated by a poor three year old that they showed us who apparently had not thrived on cow's milk. A humorous moment, as an elder jolly woman told Mahbouba about a birth helper who lost the new born during the birth-apparently only to find the baby in the voluminous drawers of the mother later. She said to us "Send us someone competent enough to find the baby in the pants of a woman...and we will be happy". She was quite amused at herself as Mahbouba endeavored to translate this to me for survey purposes.

Survey: A morning off at Shahr-i-Zohak (Red City)

Mahbouba, Dr. Sami and I decided to take a well-deserved Friday morning off to climb up to the ruins of Shahr-i-Zohak. I remember seeing this stunning city carved out of red rock when I was a girl. When I saw it I knew somehow I had to return to Afghanistan when I was an adult and show my children this remarkable sight. I since then have only seen such beauty in the red rocks of Sedona. Climbing up the loose rock was challenging and about 2/3rds of the way, straight up (Afghans do not seem to use switchbacks on their paths-only for vehicles) I looked down and unexpectedly experienced vertigo and the intense desire to get back off the mountain immediately-especially as our path was lined with red rocks, the sign for "danger-unexploded land mines". Mahbouba was having as much difficulty as I was and we decided to press on to the top as we would never forgive ourselves for the opportunity to see this. Dr. Sami was obnoxious as any surefooted, macho, 26 year old Afghan male can be. He teased us relentlessly. It was on our way down that I could see the differences in cultures as Dr. Sami and Mahbouba, after weeks of needling each other and arguing, found comfort in each others chatter and laughter, whereas I grumpily declined Dr. Samis assistance and told them to shut up as I could not concentrate. I found relief in following our silent and sure-footed guide quickly down the mountain leaving them behind to enjoy a short truce as they kept each other company during the descent.

Nancy Hatch Dupree has written some of the most detailed descriptions of ancient places in Afghanistan. She says of Shahr-i-Zohak.

"This mass of impressive ruins was once the principal fortress protecting the entrance to the City of Bamiyan during the reigns of the Shansabani Kings in the 12–13th centuries A.D. The natural defenses afforded by the cliff had been recognized from much earlier times, as might well be expected. Archaeologists have found evidence that man had built defensive works here as early as the end of the B.C. era, and, when the Hephthalite Huns fought for possession and power within these mountains in the 6th century A.D., there was a considerable complex here. The present remains, however, are those of the fortress which withstood the advance of a Mongol army led by Genghis Khan’s favorite grandson in 1221. The resistance was stout and determined and during the melee on the plain at its foot, the young commander fell mortally wounded. In revenge Genghis Khan vowed to destroy the valley, which he did, most thoroughly.
Today’s visitors enter the fortress via the very pathway used by the original defenders and one can easily envision the passage of mounted cavalry, with all the attendant sounds, smells and confusion. On the way are attractively decorated towers for guards on duty. These towers had no doorways but were entered by ladders which were pulled up later to make the tower totally secure. There the soldiers stood on wooden platforms laid on heavy supporting beams, and shot their arrows through loopholes.
...city-fortress of glowing magenta, atop such cliffs, must of necessity have inspired romantics with tales of legendary kings and heroes. So it is not surprising to learn from the inhabitants of Bamiyan that this was actually, in fact, the royal abode of Zohak. A wilder occupant for this fairyland city could hardly be found.

Zohak first appears in the Shahnama as a noble prince of Arabia, a devoted son well-beloved by his people. He became, however, possessed of the Devil who induced him to usurp his father’s throne whereupon the Devil appeared disguised as a loyal subject who asked to kiss the new king on the shoulders in token of his complete submission. No sooner had he done so, and vanished, than two black serpents thrust their heads out from where the kisses had been placed. Attempts to cut them off only resulted in their immediate return and their increased demand for human brains, the only food they would accept.
At the same time that Zohak was being seduced by the Devil, civil war broke out in Iran and Zohak marched in as the champion of one faction and was enthroned as the emperor of Iran. For a thousand years his rule brought terror and chaos to the land, but then the hero Fraidun was born. After many escapades, Fraidun finally succeeded in taking Zohak prisoner whereupon he took the dragon-king to a far off mountain peak and left him there to die. The Shahnama ends the tale here but, typically, Afghan legend goes on to elaborate by saying that, deprived of their daily meal of brains, the serpents turned on Zohak, bit into his scalp and fed upon his brains until he died."

Survey: Shibar Pass Bamiyan

I don't think there is a province Mahbouba and I have been to that we don't think is beautiful but Bamiyan is one of our favorite places. The second week of our survey took place in Bamiyan. This is a relatively well-to-do village close to the Shibar pass. Bamiyan is primarily Hazara, and shiites (minority muslim sect). This is the valley where the Taliban blew up the ancient Buddhas. Martin Ewan writes in "Afghanistan" ..."In 200 AD...Bhuddhism flourished and in its Mahayana form, spread through out Afghanistan and along the Silk Road to Central Asia and China. Most spectacularily, two huge images of Buddha were found in Bamian,carved into the cliff face at the margin of the valley. These probably date from the third and fifth centureis AD, and the number of monastic cells carved into the cliffs around them show that this was a major Bhuddhist center. Hsuan Tsang, who visited Bamiyan in the course of his journey in the seventh century found 'several dozen monasteries and several thousand monks still in the area."

At the hotel where we were staying, a team of Japanese working for UNESCO were setting development perimeters for the incredible places found in Bamiyan such as Bandi-amir lake and the valley of Bamiyan so that this area can be preserved. Very heartening although difficult for the residents, a population that caught the brunt of the war no matter who was fighting who...as Hazaras are traditionally picked on by everyone.


We traded our difficult and whiney driver, Myroweis, in Badakshan for my regular driver, a character and amputee, Wahid. He and I have worked together every since I started coming to Afghanistan and I was looking forward to one less difficulty with him managing our logistics. Unfortunately for me, he discovered in the prior week that my husband was paying his driver $100 a month more than I was paying him. This sent him into a deep depression, and he felt that life was terribly unjust. The result was that the "all terrain" vehicle that he brought for us to use from Kabul (expecting top dollar) was the oldest, smelliest, rickety "town ace" van he could find. Mahbouba and I drove from airport to hotel with noses in our knees because they set the seats so that the maximum number of people can get into the van. In a high dudgeon, I sent the vehicle and driver home and secured another vehicle and driver. Since we were expecting to travel in snow it was a safety issue as much as anything. Wahid moped around the hotel as he was so unpleasant I stopped taking him out. My final straw was when I asked him to buy and arrange for the preparation of lunch (through the hotel) he stumped ino our room and told Mahbouba, my colleague and his superior to do it. I really have loved and appreciated this man but it was the final straw in a difficult work setting and the end of his job when we got back to Kabul.

Pictures below are from a village up near the Shibar pass...we go over it from Kabul. We say a donkey giving birth on the plains...breathtakingly beautiful mountains.